Mimase

At Mimase, one moment your eye might catch the small bowls of simmered dishes lining the counter, and the next you might spot white-wine-steamed mussels or dishes seasoned with fresh coriander on the chalkboard menu. Retaining the easygoing feel of a local izakaya, the kitchen moves freely across Japanese, Western, and Chinese traditions in small-plate portions, offering diners the pleasure of piecing together whatever suits their mood.

A natural place to begin is the slow-simmered beef sinew with konjac, or the seasonal obanzai side dishes made with market vegetables. Grazing on staples like house-made potato salad or freshly fried saki-ika (dried squid) tempura leads smoothly into meat courses favored by regulars, including hand-kneaded hamburg steaks and Milanese-style cutlets. Diners can also round out the meal with smaller closing bites, such as mini curry rice or mini gapao rice.

Drinks include beer and wine alongside various other options that pair easily with the eclectic food. Seating spans counter stools with a close view of the cooking as well as an ozashiki tatami area where guests take off their shoes and settle in. It is an unpretentious space suited just as well to a solo drink with a few small plates as to an evening meal shared with friends or family.

Doors open at 16:00 in the evening. With a limited number of seats, reserving in advance is recommended. Payment is cash only, so have yen notes and coins on hand before settling in for the kitchen's warm, carefully prepared cooking.